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Edward Morgan, was born in England in 1964 and began climbing while studying Mathematics at Nottingham University, and has continued doing it over the past forty years all over the world (in 1990 he reached an altitude of 7,200 on Mount Everest, before giving up because of the risk of avalanches). Forever intrigued by the history of mountaineering, he was awed by this little known climb of the south face of the Lhotse, which he has been researching for over ten years. Thanks to documents, interviews with the protagonists of the greatest expeditions and various personal recces, he was able to write Lhotse South Face. A husband and the father of five children, he lives in Switzerland.
Full English version available
Illustrated
The mountaineering story of the Lhotse – the legendary Himalayan Mountain that commanded the involvement of the best mountaineers of all times – told with great skill and a wealth of details.
“It’s the most challenging face of the fourteen 8,000-metre-tall mountains. A face that takes your breath away, that puts into perspective the greatness of man and mountaineer. A face that makes you dream…” Hervé Barmasse writes this about the “dark side” of the Lhotse, which for years has warded off the best Italian, former Yugoslav and French mountaineers, twice defeated Reinhold Messner and killed the Pole Kukuczka… A face made of rock and ice, constantly swept by avalanches and subject to long periods of bad weather, technically extremely difficult; its first successful climb is still controversial and a topic of debate. The story of this “Wall of legends” and the numerous attempts carried out by the best mountaineers of all times is the very emblem of the history of Himalayan mountaineering, as well as an opportunity to (re)discover and (re)write a history of mountaineering in Eastern Europe. Indeed, because on a wall like that only the strongest, most determined and “toughest” could hope for success, traits typical of East European mountaineers, too often neglected in the history of “official” mountaineering, told by Western protagonists.
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